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Agriculture + Climate
Stories about regenerative agriculture, biodynamics, climate change, efforts to reduce greenhouse gases and carbon sequestration, and more.
Race and Food are Intertwined. Here’s How We Can Do Better.
This piece ran on CivilEats.com on Oct. 20th. The food system, like every other sphere of life in America, has been shaped by...
Oct 31, 20174 min read
Building Portland’s Local Food Economy at the Redd
When Cattail Creek Lamb owner John Neumeister was younger, he would devote one day per week to making the 110-mile drive from his ranch...
Sep 19, 20172 min read


Janaki Jagannath: Championing Farmworker Justice in the Central Valley
This story appeared on Civil Eats on August 2nd. In the late spring of 2014, Janaki Jagannath and her colleagues had left a community...
Aug 16, 20176 min read
Rwandan Coffee, from Crop to Cup
When Agnes Nyinawumuntu began her career as a coffee farmer two decades ago, she picked coffee “cherries" indiscriminately and with...
Jul 31, 20172 min read
Farmers Who (Still) Support Trump
In late February, I read an Op-Ed by Nicholas Kristof called " Trump Voters are Not the Enemy" that really resonated for me. Like...
Jun 14, 20172 min read
The Four Top: Sanctuary Restaurants, Undocumented Labor in Food, and Peruvian Cuisine
A few weeks ago, wine writer Katherine Cole invited me to be a panelist on her new podcast, the Four Top. On the podcast, which just won a James Beard media award, Katherine and three other food-world insiders (usually members of the media) talk about hot-button topics in the food and beverage culture. For this episode , Peter Platt of Andina restaurant, OPB reporter Roxy de La Torre, and I discussed Sanctuary Restaurants, undocumented immigrants in the restaurant industry,
May 9, 20171 min read


Cabo's New Wave
I've been traveling to Cabo for years with my mom and step-dad and every time we go, it seems, there are more restaurants touting their...
May 1, 20174 min read


Wild & Wonderful: Dana Frank's natural wine-focused restaurant Dame
I'm pretty excited about my first story in Food & Wine , about Dana Frank's beguiling new natural-wine-focused restaurant, Dame. Reporting this meant I got to know the Oregon winemakers who are on the menu at Dame, as well as their wines. Five of the winemakers were at the dinner: Kelley Fox (of Kelley Fox Wines), Dan Rinke (Johan), Chad Stocks (Minimus and Omero), Steven Thompson (Analemma), and Scott Frank (Bow & Arrow), Dana's husband. Frank pouring wine from a banquett
Apr 3, 20171 min read


Why Grass-fed Dairy is Better for You
This explainer-style piece on grass-fed dairy was published in Organic Life last month but with all my travels this winter, I forgot to...
Mar 17, 20172 min read


Harnessing the Generosity of Farmers
This story originally appeared on Civil Eats on August 18th. Claw, who is from Burma, fries up veggies for a pad thai It’s 10:00...
Aug 29, 20165 min read
Portland's First Food Hub brings the Farm to a Bigger Table
I've been wanting to write about Ecotrust's the Redd on Salmon ever since VP of Food and Farming Amanda Oborne explained the concept to...
Aug 18, 20163 min read


Change is Brewing: A Florida University helps revive Haiti's once-robust coffee trade
A version of this story is in the summer issue of Modern Farmer. Believe it or not, Haiti was once the largest coffee producer in the...
Jun 10, 20163 min read


Move Over, Kale: Dulse Is The Superfood Of The Future
I wrote about dulse, a crimson sea vegetable that's got the umami of bacon and the nutritional punch of kale, for the February issue of...
Jan 21, 20161 min read


Wine without Water: the Case for Dry-Farming Grapes
At a recent dinner celebrating “dry-farmed” Oregon wines at Portland’s Southeast Wine Collective, diners listened intently as winemaker...
Dec 21, 20151 min read


Oregon's Rabble-Rousing Winemaker: John Paul
I got to interview one of my favorite Oregon winemakers for Portland Monthly's Long Story Short column . Cameron Winery's John Paul, a longtime advocate of dry farming, isn’t worried about this summer’s heat waves. John Paul was finishing his postdoc in chemistry at UC Berkeley when he found himself drawn more to the wineries of Napa than to the lab. By 1984 he and his wife, Teri, had purchased a vineyard site in the Dundee Hills, and Cameron Winery was born. Since then, Pau
Oct 11, 20153 min read


The Truth About "Sustainable" Chicken
In a famous early sketch on Portlandia , Peter (Fred Armisen) and Nance (Carrie Brownstein) interrogate a server about the chicken on the menu. Who was he? (He was Colin.) Where did he come from, and how did he live? (Very nearby, free range.) What did he eat? (Sheep’s milk, soy, and hazelnuts.) Finally, Peter, still not quite convinced he can devour Colin in good conscience, asks, “Does he have a lot of friends—other chickens as friends?” A parody, the scene nonetheless capt
Sep 1, 20151 min read
Clean Weed: Inside an Organic Marijuana Farm
{This story was published on Civil Eats on July 27th.} Sofresh Farms , in Canby, Oregon, is not what I expect. When I finally find it, on...
Aug 3, 20156 min read
Flour Power
If you know me, you know I'm obsessed with craft bakeries, particularly my local one in Portland: Tabor Bread. The baker at Tabor makes a...
Apr 10, 20153 min read
The Power of Selection: Plant Breeder Frank Morton
I got to write about superstar organic plant breeder Frank Morton for Communal Table , a new literary and food publication created by the...
Mar 12, 20152 min read
Beyond Organic? Alternatives to USDA-certified Organic
{This story was published on Civil Eats earlier today.} Last fall, after wondering for years about whether I should buy produce from...
Feb 23, 20157 min read
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