Rose City Renaissance
- hannahmwallace8
- May 1
- 6 min read
Updated: Jul 3
After a few rough years, enduringly quirkly Portland is back (and the food is better than ever).
When my editor at Condé Nast Traveler asked me to write an "On the Ground" guide to Portland (Oregon), of course I said yes. The challenge was fitting all I had to say into 4 pages of the magazine. And even though I've called this city home for 16 years now, I uncovered some new-to-me spots (and reminders) from other locals like Patrick Leonard, Kimiko Matsuda, and Gregory Gourdet.
If you can't find a copy of the magazine (on newsstands until the end of June), you can read the full piece here or below.
Portland, Oregon, which straddles the Willamette River with snowcapped Mount Hood standing guard, is one of the country's prettiest cities. It's long had a thriving alternative-music scene, a free-wheeling cycling culture, and iconic institutions, like Powell's Books, the world's largest indie bookstore. A city of makers—from ceramists to coffee roasters and sake purveyors—it's also a dynamite place to shop. And with a breathtaking new, timber-roofed airport terminal, a can-do first-term mayor, and an ever-exciting mix of places to eat and drink, the city is crushing it. Read on to find out what locals and travelers are loving about Portland's fresh bloom.
Where to explore
St. Johns: The city's northernmost enclave (Burnside Street divides Portland into north and south; the Willamette River, into east and west) is famous for its picturesque steel suspension bridge and more affordable rents. Recently it's gotten attention for a lively restaurant and bar scene—don't miss Bar Nouveau and dive bar Slim's.
Sunnyside: This inner southeast neighborhood has two commercial shopping boulevards, Belmont and Hawthorne; each has an eclectic mix of vintage-clothing shops, restaurants, bookstores, great cafés, and quirky boutiques like Tender Loving Empire.
Alberta Arts District: One of Portland's historically Black neighborhoods, Alberta stands out for its galleries, cafés, breweries, and, of course, more great restaurants—from upscale Basque food at Urdaneta to Indian street fare at Bollywood Theater.
Boise: Another historically Black neighborhood, it's known for its main thoroughfare, Mississippi Avenue, which has excellent indie-music venues (Mississippi Studios, The 1905) and one of the best pizzerias in town, Lovely's Fifty Fifty.
Central Eastside: This still light-industrial area has a lot of exciting spots: convivial French bistro Le Pigeon; Scotch Lodge whiskey bar; Cowbell, the city's best cheesemonger; and Literary Arts' new bookstore-café.
...and where to shop
Canoe: When design nerds from NYC and LA come to town, they put Canoe on their short list for beautifully curated, high-style treasures. It's the spot to pick up a perfectly designed tote bag, a set of porcelain plates, or a Portuguese wool throw. Or maybe all three—there's no sales tax in Oregon, after all.
Frances May: At ambitious clothing boutique Frances May, owner Pamela Baker-Miller carries pieces that are offered in only a handful of stores across the country. She also consigns unique pieces designed by local (mostly female) makers such as upcycled coats from MaKenzie Godso. If you're lucky, you'll be there for one of the pop-ups Baker-Miller hosts for brands like Portland Garment Factory, Colibri floral design, and other Portland creatives.
Woonwinkel: This 15-year-old shop is full of color and surprises like multicolored Dusen Dusen slippers, glasswork by Portland-based artists, and Sabre Paris flatware (made in France—Woonwinkel was chosen as the Portland retailer to sell it). It also has its own line of USA-made blankets and “place candles,” including one called Oregon Coast, which smells aptly of sea salt, wet cedar, windswept dune grass, and burning wood.
Beds, baths, and beyond
Trendy spots the Hoxton and the Hotel Grand Stark are still choice places to stay, but these three hotels—two newcomers and a refresh of a long-loved classic—are worth checking in to. Cascada, a stylish arrival in the Alberta Arts District, has 100 thoughtfully designed rooms with sustainable furnishings like Portuguese cork couches and eco-friendly mattresses, but its real appeal is the spectacular spa. Cascada's thermal springs include a skylighted pool area called the Conservatory, where you can socialize and order drinks; an outdoor Secret Garden, with a sauna, a hot tub, and a fire pit; and a subterranean silent area that has a steam room, a sauna, a cold plunge, and three soaking pools. The Ritz-Carlton, Portland, easily the most luxe stay in town, has sprawling corner suites, all with views of the city and stately Mount Hood. The 20th-floor restaurant, Bellpine, has a 14-page wine list with a strong selection of Oregon bottles and a new, globally inspired menu from chef de cuisine Jocelyn Chacón. Don't miss the lobby bar, Meadowrue, for a delightful omakase experience from chef Ocean Carlisle. The Heathman, a storied 1927 property known for hosting celebrity authors and musicians who perform next door at the Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall, was Portland's first luxury hotel. A recent facelift of the lobby and bar allows for a more seamless check-in, complete with a welcome drink and a bookmark with a literary quote tailored to your stay. Public areas like the lounge, which has its own bar, and a light-filled second-floor library are lovely spots to curl up with a book.
Now hear this!
Portland gave us Elliott Smith, The Decemberists, and Modest Mouse, and it remains one of the best cities to catch indie-music acts of all kinds, from underground punk to neo-folk. Live Nation and local promoter Monqui Presents are set to open huge concert arenas on the east side in 2027, but Portlanders are passionate about these more intimate settings. The 98-year-old Aladdin Theater has a subtle grade to the floor (making any seat a good one), exciting bookings, and killer acoustics. The Crystal Ballroom, owned by McMenamins, a local craft-beer empire, is a lively spot to see big-name artists; plus, it has a wonderfully bouncy floor for dancing. Musician Jim Brunberg, half of the Wonderly duo, and Kevin Cradock own three beloved music venues: Mississippi Studios, which is decked out in Persian rugs, tasseled lamps, and a state-of-the-art sound system; Revolution Hall, a former high school auditorium where big names often book two nights in a row (check out its Show Bar downstairs for smaller acts); and, in an old Odd Fellows hall, Polaris, which has a lower-level speakeasy and a renovated ballroom upstairs. Head to The Showdown, by the team at Pickathon (a summer music festival), for emerging country and bluegrass acts.
Portland's palate
From its food-cart scene to its role in pioneering farm-to-table eating, Portland has always been a food lover's dream. A new wave of young talent is keeping diners on the edge of their seat. Here are the spots everyone is talking about. Chef Althea Grey Potter's Bar Nouveau, a feminine French bistro in the St. Johns neighborhood, serves hearty entrées like smoked pork rilletts schnitzel with lentils and squash. Desserts include a “happy ending”: a Madeira, bonbons, and a romance novel. Kachka Fabrika, a new vodka distillery and zakuski bar (zakuski is Russian for “hors d'oeuvres”), has an unmissable happy hour where super-fresh Hama Hama oysters are just $1 each. The regular menu includes caviar served with potato chips and cucumber dip and seafood towers. Beautiful new cider bar Bauman's on Oak has a standout seasonal menu to pair with the dozens of local ciders on tap; plant yourself in the garden and order the sourdough pizza with Dungeness crab. Beloved Ok Omens, from restaurateur Monique Sui, who put Portland on the culinary map in the 1990s, has a new chef, Joseph Papas, and he's killing it. Don't miss his kelp-cured trout on grilled toast with fresh horseradish. Louis Lin, a veteran of LA's Felix Trattoria, is the chef at Xiao Ye, a bustling spot in the Hollywood District. He's Taiwanese American, but his cuisine is a deft amalgamation of Italian, Chinese, and Laotian influences: Get the “khao soi” radiatori with shredded chicken, cilantro, and lime. Check out Madrina Cocina Mexicana, a year-old downtown restaurant, for rich quesabirria (fried beef-and-cheese-stuffed tortillas with consommé for dipping) and local wines from Latina winemakers.
Ask the locals
“I get a lot of travelers in my shop, and I direct them to places I love, like Sunflower Sake—part bottle shop, part bar—or the new Berlu Bakery for pineapple clove cake and an amazing Vietnamese coffee. The city's libraries have had these incredible glow-ups recently. One of my favorite spots to read is the Albina branch; it has a courtyard with a garden.”
—Patrick Leonard, owner of Postcard Bookshop, a travel-themed bookstore
“The Marie-Marie is this jewel box of a perfumery downtown that sells a wide variety of independent, niche brands, including some hard-to-find scents from around the world. Nearby, in Chinatown, is a beautiful magazine store called Chess Club. It's a hot spot for the city's design community, and it has a great events calendar—neat discussions and pop-ups.”
—Kimiko Matsuda, community engagement strategist and founder of The Idea Factory
“After work I usually go straight to bed. But when I do go out, I go to Navarre—a classic Portland restaurant. I just love the menu, which is simple and very well-done. I try to be outdoors as much as possible, and Forest Park, one of the biggest urban parks in the country, is where I go to decompress. I run there often. It's an amazing way to start my day!”
—Gregory Gourdet, chef at Kann in Portland and Maison Passerelle in New York City
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