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Food + Culture


Oregon's Super-High Standards for Marijuana Edibles
If you’ve wandered into a cannabis dispensary any time since last October, when the advent of recreational sales made those visits possible, you’ve marveled at a galaxy of goodies: salted caramel chews made with organic cannabis oil, small-batch GMO-free ice cream from local milk, rosemary-and-cumin-spiced nuts, even marionberry coffee cake. Sour Bhotz gummies, Drip ice-cream, and Laurie & MaryJane's nut mix. But unless a doctor has issued you a medical marijuana card, you
May 25, 20161 min read
Power Lunch: Bamboo Sushi
It was fun writing about Bamboo Sushi's new downtown location for Oregon Business Magazine's Power Lunch column. I felt a little...
Mar 22, 20162 min read
Portland Hops into the Cricket Craze
“I think we’ve greatly underestimated the palate of Americans,” says Cloft. “There are a lot of people who are ready to make the whole cricket jump. Seeing chefs doing it in places like New York City and Portland, will start to open that door even more for us. The sky’s the limit at that point.”
Feb 16, 20164 min read


Move Over, Kale: Dulse Is The Superfood Of The Future
I wrote about dulse, a crimson sea vegetable that's got the umami of bacon and the nutritional punch of kale, for the February issue of...
Jan 21, 20161 min read


Oregon's Rabble-Rousing Winemaker: John Paul
I got to interview one of my favorite Oregon winemakers for Portland Monthly's Long Story Short column . Cameron Winery's John Paul, a longtime advocate of dry farming, isn’t worried about this summer’s heat waves. John Paul was finishing his postdoc in chemistry at UC Berkeley when he found himself drawn more to the wineries of Napa than to the lab. By 1984 he and his wife, Teri, had purchased a vineyard site in the Dundee Hills, and Cameron Winery was born. Since then, Pau
Oct 11, 20153 min read
An Insider's Guide to Portland, Oregon
Friends always ask me where they should eat when they visit Portland. I have my personal shortlist: Ned Ludd , Nostrana , Navarre (why...
Sep 30, 20153 min read


The Truth About "Sustainable" Chicken
In a famous early sketch on Portlandia , Peter (Fred Armisen) and Nance (Carrie Brownstein) interrogate a server about the chicken on the menu. Who was he? (He was Colin.) Where did he come from, and how did he live? (Very nearby, free range.) What did he eat? (Sheep’s milk, soy, and hazelnuts.) Finally, Peter, still not quite convinced he can devour Colin in good conscience, asks, “Does he have a lot of friends—other chickens as friends?” A parody, the scene nonetheless capt
Sep 1, 20151 min read
Clean Weed: Inside an Organic Marijuana Farm
{This story was published on Civil Eats on July 27th.} Sofresh Farms , in Canby, Oregon, is not what I expect. When I finally find it, on...
Aug 3, 20156 min read
Flour Power
If you know me, you know I'm obsessed with craft bakeries, particularly my local one in Portland: Tabor Bread. The baker at Tabor makes a...
Apr 10, 20153 min read
The Power of Selection: Plant Breeder Frank Morton
I got to write about superstar organic plant breeder Frank Morton for Communal Table , a new literary and food publication created by the...
Mar 12, 20152 min read
Beyond Organic? Alternatives to USDA-certified Organic
{This story was published on Civil Eats earlier today.} Last fall, after wondering for years about whether I should buy produce from...
Feb 23, 20157 min read
An (Almost) Organic Christmas Tree
My latest story for Civil Eats ran earlier this week—just in time for Christmas: Each winter, tens of millions of Americans buy and...
Dec 17, 20146 min read
The Final Week of Oregon's GMO Labeling Race
It's hard to keep up with all the money flowing into Oregon to defeat Measure 92, the state's GMO labeling measure. The day after I wrote...
Nov 3, 20145 min read


Oregon-grown Teff
Tam Alemu sells 25-pound bags of teff at his Williams Street Market {Photo by Cheryl Juetten} I've been pleased to see the re-emergence of local grain economies across the United States, including here in Oregon. Farmers are growing grains—like Red Fife, spelt, and kamut—that haven't been grown here for a long, long time, and they can't seem to produce enough for local bakers, who are creating magnificent loaves that sell out quickly. As I was doing some digging for another
Oct 25, 20141 min read
Grape Expectations: why are big players in the wine industry buying up vineyards in Oregon's Willamette Valley?
California-based Jackson Family Wines just bought Zena Crown Vineyard, in Salem's lovely Eola-Amity Hills This story appears in the...
Oct 3, 201412 min read
Sandra Gilbert's "Culinary Imagination" Runs Wild
This book review was published in the San Francisco Chronicle on Sept. 10th. “Tell me what you eat, and I shall tell you what you are,”...
Sep 15, 20144 min read
Organic vs. "organic": How Much Does Certification Matter?
This story ran on CivilEats.org on Monday, Aug. 18th. Whenever we go to the farmers’ market together, my husband and I disagree about...
Aug 20, 20146 min read


Ethnic Enclaves of Chicago
Last March, while I was in Chicago for a food conference, I was also criss-crossing the city—from Devon Avenue in the north to Pilsen in...
Jul 22, 20146 min read
An Interview with David Lively at Organically Grown Co.
This story originally appeared July 1st in Oregon Business Magazine Demand for organic food continues to soar: Last year, sales of...
Jul 16, 20142 min read
Farmers in the Agrihood
Ashley Rodgers, the farm manager at Serenbe This story ran on CivilEats.org on July 9th In many ways, Shari Sirkin and Bryan Dickerson,...
Jul 11, 20144 min read
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