top of page
Wine


Wine without Water: the Case for Dry-Farming Grapes
At a recent dinner celebrating “dry-farmed” Oregon wines at Portland’s Southeast Wine Collective, diners listened intently as winemaker...
Dec 21, 20151 min read


Oregon's Rabble-Rousing Winemaker: John Paul
I got to interview one of my favorite Oregon winemakers for Portland Monthly's Long Story Short column . Cameron Winery's John Paul, a longtime advocate of dry farming, isn’t worried about this summer’s heat waves. John Paul was finishing his postdoc in chemistry at UC Berkeley when he found himself drawn more to the wineries of Napa than to the lab. By 1984 he and his wife, Teri, had purchased a vineyard site in the Dundee Hills, and Cameron Winery was born. Since then, Pau
Oct 11, 20153 min read


Zoned for Eco-Travel: Oregon's Land Use Law 2.0
Oregon's famously strict land-use laws are what make our state so desirable. But with a new flurry of farm stays, European-style hiking...
Jun 1, 201510 min read
Grape Expectations: why are big players in the wine industry buying up vineyards in Oregon's Willamette Valley?
California-based Jackson Family Wines just bought Zena Crown Vineyard, in Salem's lovely Eola-Amity Hills This story appears in the...
Oct 3, 201412 min read
Drinking (dry-farmed) Wine in the Willamette Valley
I have a story in the May issue of Afar magazine about the beautiful Willamette Valley . Though I didn't get a whole lot of space to wax...
May 1, 20131 min read
Show me Some Skin: skin-fermented white wines in the U.S.
The grapes used in Big Table Farm's Wirtz Pinot Gris sit on skins for up to 10 days. The result? A full-bodied and luscious wine that's...
Feb 11, 20133 min read


Vintage MFK Fisher
Inextricably bound up with M.F.K. Fisher’s lifelong passion for food was the pleasure she took from sipping and serving a simple house wine, a crisp aperitif or a prickly, delicious glass of Champagne. In “M.F.K. Fisher: Musings on Wine and other Libations” (Sterling Epicure; $19), Fisher’s biographer, Anne Zimmerman, gathers all of the eminent food writer’s essays on drink under one beautifully designed cover. Some of these gems have been plucked from well-known collections,
Jun 8, 20121 min read
Oregon Wine Getaways
Though I'm a native Oregonian, I'd never ventured to the wineries in the southern part of the state—until researching this 12-page story ...
Sep 29, 20102 min read


Portland's Happiest Hours
One of the first things a curious eater will discover about Portland (Oregon) is the ubiquity of food-focused happy hours. Not only are house wines and daily cocktails just $5 (and local microbrews often $3)—you can usually get a full dinner for under $10 (depending on how hungry you are). I just wrote about a handful of my current favorites for the New York Times' T: Style . What are yours?
Aug 8, 20101 min read


Natural Wine Bars
Food trends are typically followed by parallel trends in wine. Witness the recent focus on organic, biodynamic, and local wines—at restaurants and wine shops across the country. But, just as the locavore movement has begun spurning mere organic produce (consecrating “beyond organic” farmers such as Joel Salatin as movement heros), fans of terroir—let’s call them terroir-ists—are touting something called natural wines. Artisan & Vine is London’s first natural wine bar. For a q
Jan 5, 20101 min read
The Politics of "Green Wine"—and Added Sulfites
This post originally appeared on the Faster Times, generating dozens of comments. Clearly the subject of what does, indeed, cause a red...
Sep 8, 20092 min read


Big Wine and an "Omnivore's Dilemma" to Expose It
(This article was originally published in my Food Politics column at the TheFasterTimes.com.) Thanks to the slew of recent books and...
Aug 25, 20093 min read


Manure Mix=Floral Bouquet? Polyculture at an Oregon Vineyard
(This article was originally published in my Food Politics column at the TheFasterTimes.com.) The wines at Belle Pente (beautiful...
Aug 17, 20094 min read
Evesham Wood and the Importance of Deep Roots
(This article was originally published in my Food Politics column at the TheFasterTimes.com.) Last week, while visiting my family in...
Aug 13, 20092 min read
bottom of page

